I can still feel it now, as my toes criss cross eachother, the griany sand makes an irratable sensation, or the salt that's left on my skin to dry, and it's eating me away.
The blank stare into the horizon.
The inevitable cascading waves.
The bearable temperature of the water, as it travels into my wetsuit, and brushes against my skin.
The never ending paddling and kicking to reach my spot.
The wait it takes for a towering wave to appear.
Like a gear perfectly switching to another, the wave takes me along with it.
I treat it as if it were mine.
Grab the sides of my board, tilt towards the face, and let her work her magic.
As the white bubbly wash follows behind me,
I can only feel the adrenaline and chemicals speeding throughout my body.
The wave took me back to the shore line, I felt it's energy die off, and then suck itself back in to return back to it's peaceful owner,
like a well trained dog, listening for his masters call.
Drained. I held my head up. Gave my self a chuckle.
Took my fins off, then my fin socks.
Stood up, faced the horizon, felt the suns rays scanning me as if i was the bar code and the sun was the laser,
I sat down for a bit.
I thought to myself, that I was content with this experience.
I glared to my right and my left, and noticed the ever so happy crowd minding their own business
and with all this i thought to myself:
"welcome back, the beach is whispering to me: welcome back."
and that was that.
walked back to the car with the grains of sand sticking to my feet like magnets,
we sailed inland.
and that was my first time in the water since december.